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Learn About Building Custom Mechanical Keyboards

Understanding the Basics of Mechanical Keyboards A mechanical keyboard uses individual mechanical switches under each key, rather than the rubber dome techno...

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Understanding the Basics of Mechanical Keyboards

A mechanical keyboard uses individual mechanical switches under each key, rather than the rubber dome technology found in most standard computer keyboards. Each switch contains a spring, stem, and housing that work together to register a keystroke. When you press a key, the stem travels downward through a specific distance called the actuation point. At this point, the keyboard registers that you've pressed the key. The switch then springs back to its original position when you release the key.

The primary appeal of mechanical keyboards lies in their tactile feedback and durability. Unlike rubber dome keyboards where you might need to replace the entire keyboard after a few years, individual mechanical switches can last for 50 million to 100 million keystrokes, depending on the switch type. This longevity means you can use a mechanical keyboard for many years and simply replace worn switches as needed.

Mechanical keyboards come in various sizes. A full-size keyboard includes a numeric keypad on the right side and typically has around 104 keys. A tenkeyless (TKL) keyboard removes the numeric pad, reducing the size while keeping the main typing area intact. Compact layouts like 75%, 65%, and 60% remove progressively more keys, including function rows or arrow keys. Ultra-compact options like 40% keyboards are highly specialized and require learning new key combinations.

The switch itself is the heart of a mechanical keyboard. Different switches produce different typing experiences. Some switches feature a tactile bump in the middle of the keystroke that you can feel. Others are linear, meaning the stem moves smoothly from top to bottom without any bump. Still others are clicky, combining the tactile bump with an audible click sound. The choice between these switch types depends entirely on personal preference and use case.

Practical Takeaway: Before investing in a mechanical keyboard, consider what size and switch type match your needs. Test different switches if possible at a store or through switch tester kits, which contain several individual switches you can try out.

Exploring Different Types of Mechanical Switches

Mechanical switches are manufactured by various companies, with Cherry MX being the oldest and most widely recognized standard. Cherry switches, made by Cherry Corporation in Germany, established a design that many other manufacturers have adapted. However, the mechanical keyboard market now includes dozens of switch manufacturers producing millions of variations.

Tactile switches include models like Cherry MX Brown and Gateron Brown. These switches have a noticeable bump in the actuation point that provides feedback without producing significant noise. Typists often prefer tactile switches because the bump helps confirm that the key press registered. The bump typically occurs around 60% down the switch travel. Popular tactile switch options include the Holy Panda switch, which combines components from different manufacturers, and the Zealios, known for a smooth bump that many typists describe as satisfying.

Linear switches move smoothly without any bump, making them popular for gaming and rapid typing. Cherry MX Red and Gateron Red are common examples. Because there's no tactile feedback, you rely entirely on the actuation point for confirmation. Some linear switches require less force to press than others, with actuation forces ranging from 35 grams to 80 grams. Lighter switches allow longer gaming sessions without fatigue, while heavier switches suit people who accidentally press keys frequently.

Clicky switches produce an audible click sound when you press them, combined with a tactile bump. Cherry MX Blue and Gateron Blue are widely available options. The click happens at the actuation point, giving you both audio and tactile feedback. However, clicky switches are quite loud, typically producing sound levels around 80 decibels. This makes them less suitable for offices or shared living spaces.

Switch manufacturers also vary in their specifications. Some switches are hot-swappable, meaning you can remove and replace them without soldering. Others are soldered permanently to the keyboard circuit board. Switches also vary in travel distance (usually 3 to 4 millimeters), pre-travel distance (distance before actuation), and force required to press them. Understanding these specifications helps you select switches that match your typing style.

Practical Takeaway: Purchase a switch tester containing 4 to 9 different switch types. Spend a week using each switch to understand which characteristics feel most comfortable. This small investment prevents expensive mistakes when building a full keyboard.

Selecting and Preparing Your Keyboard Case and PCB

The keyboard case is the outer housing that holds all components together. Cases are manufactured from various materials including plastic, aluminum, polycarbonate, polyurethane, and wood. Plastic cases are the most affordable option, typically costing $30 to $80. Aluminum cases are more durable and provide a heavier, more premium feel, but cost $100 to $400. The case material affects both the sound and feel of the keyboard. Softer materials like plastic and wood tend to produce deeper, warmer tones, while aluminum produces sharper, brighter sounds.

The PCB (printed circuit board) is the electronic component that records your keystrokes and sends them to your computer. When choosing a PCB, you need to determine how many keys you need based on your desired keyboard layout. A 60% PCB accommodates 61 keys, a 75% PCB holds about 84 keys, and a tenkeyless PCB contains 87 keys. Most PCBs are pre-programmed with standard keyboard layouts, but some allow customization through software or firmware flashing.

Hot-swap PCBs have small sockets where switches plug in and out easily. Soldered PCBs require desoldering old switches with specialized equipment before installing new ones. If you're a beginner, hot-swap PCBs make the building process much simpler. Soldered PCBs offer slightly better electrical stability and are often less expensive, but they require soldering skills and equipment.

Stabilizers are components that prevent longer keys like the spacebar, shift, and enter from tilting when you press them unevenly. Most keyboards include stabilizers on keys longer than 2 units. Stabilizers come in two types: screw-in stabilizers, which attach with screws, and clip-in stabilizers, which snap into place. Screw-in stabilizers provide more stability but require more assembly steps. Quality stabilizers significantly impact typing feel, so researching options for your specific PCB is worthwhile.

When preparing your case and PCB, check that the PCB fits properly in the case and that all mounting points align. Some cases use gasket-mounting systems that allow the PCB to flex slightly, affecting the overall feel and sound. Other cases use tray-mounting, where the PCB sits on a flat surface. Understanding your case's mounting style helps you visualize how the keyboard will feel when complete.

Practical Takeaway: Create a spreadsheet listing your desired keyboard layout size, case material preference, and budget. Cross-reference this with available PCBs to ensure compatibility before purchasing any components.

Installing Stabilizers and Preparing Components

Stabilizers require careful installation to function properly. Before installing stabilizers, apply lubricant to the stabilizer wires and stems. This reduces friction and provides a smoother keystroke on longer keys. Many builders use specialized keyboard lubricants like Krytox or Tribosys, though some use lighter machine oil. The goal is to apply a thin, even coat without over-lubricating, which can make keys feel mushy.

For screw-in stabilizers, you'll typically apply lubricant to the wire and stem, then position the stabilizer on the PCB. The stabilizer's two stems should sit in designated slots on the longer keys. The housing screws into place from the bottom of the PCB. Make sure the stabilizer is centered and level before tightening screws. Uneven stabilizer installation causes keys to bind or feel loose.

Clip-in stabilizers insert into clips pre-installed on the PCB. These are quicker to install but offer less adjustability. Some builders prefer clip-in stabilizers for their simplicity, while others choose screw-in for their stability and adjustability. Either type, when properly installed and lubricated, will produce good results.

Before installing switches, prepare your workspace with proper lighting and organization. Lay out all switches in the order you'll install them, corresponding to your keyboard layout. This prevents mixing up different switch types and ensures consistent placement. Some builders also apply lubricant to switch stems and springs before installation. This step is optional

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