Build Your Own Squirrel House Step By Step
Understanding Squirrel House Basics and Types A squirrel house, also called a squirrel drey box or nest box, provides shelter for squirrels during harsh weat...
Understanding Squirrel House Basics and Types
A squirrel house, also called a squirrel drey box or nest box, provides shelter for squirrels during harsh weather and nesting season. Unlike bird houses, squirrel houses are larger structures designed to accommodate the size and behavior of tree squirrels. Understanding the different types available helps you choose what works best for your yard and local squirrel population.
The most common types of squirrel houses include the open-front design, the enclosed box with a single entrance hole, and the multi-chamber nest box. Open-front houses allow squirrels easy access but offer less protection from predators and weather. Enclosed boxes with entrance holes between 1.25 to 1.5 inches in diameter work well for fox squirrels and gray squirrels, which are the most common North American species. Some designs feature removable roofs for cleaning, while others have ventilation holes to prevent moisture buildup inside.
Squirrels naturally build dreys—leaf and twig nests high in tree branches—but they appreciate additional shelter, especially in winter. Research from wildlife management programs shows that providing nest boxes can support local squirrel populations during food scarcity and extreme weather. A single squirrel may use multiple houses throughout the year, moving between locations based on seasonal needs and food availability.
Building your own squirrel house costs between $15 and $40 in materials, compared to $25 to $60 for pre-made versions. Homemade versions allow you to customize dimensions and materials to match your local squirrel species and climate conditions. The construction process typically takes 3 to 5 hours for someone with basic carpentry skills.
Practical Takeaway: Before building, identify which squirrel species live in your area. Gray squirrels and fox squirrels are eastern species, while western regions have Douglas squirrels and Abert's squirrels. Local animal control or wildlife extension offices can confirm which species you should accommodate.
Gathering Materials and Tools You'll Need
Building a squirrel house requires basic materials that you can obtain from any hardware or home improvement store. Using the right materials ensures the structure lasts several seasons and provides safe shelter. Wood quality, thickness, and type significantly affect durability and squirrel safety.
The primary material is untreated wood. Cedar, pine, or fir boards work well because they resist rot naturally without chemical treatment. Avoid pressure-treated wood, which contains toxic substances harmful to squirrels. You'll need one piece of 1-inch thick wood measuring 8 inches wide and 12 feet long, which you can cut into smaller pieces. This provides enough material for the walls, floor, and roof. Some builders prefer using plywood, which is more economical—a single 4-by-8 foot sheet of 3/4-inch plywood costs about $30 to $40 and supplies enough material for multiple houses.
Fasteners should be corrosion-resistant stainless steel or galvanized nails and screws. Use 1.5-inch galvanized screws or nails, approximately 16 screws per house. Galvanized fasteners prevent rust that can weaken the structure. Avoid using glue as the primary fastener; screws hold better as wood expands and contracts with temperature and moisture changes.
For the entrance hole, you'll need a drill with a spade bit or hole saw in 1.5-inch size for gray squirrels and 1.25-inch for smaller fox squirrels. You'll also need a saw (circular or hand saw), measuring tape, pencil, sandpaper (120-grit), and a drill-driver or screwdriver. Safety equipment includes work gloves and safety glasses.
Optional materials that enhance functionality include hinges for removable roofs (allowing for annual cleaning), wood shavings or straw for bedding (never use materials with pesticides), and small L-brackets for additional roof support. Do not use insulation, fiberglass, or commercial bedding materials—squirrels prefer natural bedding and materials that regulate temperature naturally.
Practical Takeaway: Buy untreated cedar if possible, as it naturally resists decay and lasts 5 to 7 years outdoors. If using pine, plan to replace the house every 3 to 4 years or apply a non-toxic wood sealant on the exterior only, leaving the interior unfinished.
Step-by-Step Construction Process
Building a functional squirrel house involves cutting wood pieces to specification, assembling the walls and floor, creating the entrance hole, and attaching the roof. Following these steps ensures a structurally sound home that meets squirrel needs.
Step 1: Cut Your Wood Pieces Start by cutting your wood into the following pieces: two side panels (8 inches wide by 10 inches tall), a front and back panel (6 inches wide by 10 inches tall), a floor (6 inches by 6 inches), and two roof pieces (7 inches by 11 inches). The front panel is slightly shorter to prevent water from pooling at the entrance. Use a circular saw or hand saw, making straight cuts. Sand all pieces lightly with 120-grit sandpaper to remove splinters that could injure squirrels.
Step 2: Assemble the Main Box Lay the floor piece flat. Position the two side panels perpendicular to the floor, with the inside edges aligned with the floor edges. Drill pilot holes first to prevent wood splitting, then drive screws through the side panels into the floor edges. Use 2 screws per connection. Next, attach the back panel between the two side panels at the back edge, using 2 screws per side. The front panel attaches last, securing it between the side panels at the front. This creates a box structure open at the top.
Step 3: Create the Entrance Hole On the front panel, measure and mark a point 2 inches from the top edge and 3 inches from the left edge. This off-center placement discourages predators. Drill a 1.5-inch diameter hole using a spade bit or hole saw. Smooth the hole edges with sandpaper. The hole height ensures rain doesn't spray directly inside while allowing squirrels easy access from nearby branches.
Step 4: Add Ventilation and Drainage Drill four small holes (0.25-inch diameter) in the floor corners or sides near the bottom to allow water drainage and air circulation. Drill two additional small ventilation holes near the top of the side panels, opposite the entrance hole. These features prevent moisture buildup that leads to mold and disease.
Step 5: Attach the Roof Position the two roof pieces at a 90-degree angle to form a peaked roof. One piece slopes down the front, the other down the back, creating an overhang that shelters the entrance. Screw these pieces to the side panels and front panel. The peaked design allows water to run off rather than pooling. Consider adding a small gap between the roof and top of the walls for additional ventilation. For a removable roof design, attach hinges to one side instead of permanently fastening both sides.
Step 6: Final Details Sand any rough edges inside and outside. Do not paint or stain the interior. If desired, apply a non-toxic exterior stain to the outside only for weather protection. Add a small perch or branch below the entrance hole (optional), which helps younger squirrels enter more easily. Some designs include a predator guard—a metal tube or PVC pipe surrounding the entrance hole—though this is not required.
Practical Takeaway: Assemble the structure on a flat work surface and check that all corners are square by measuring diagonally from corner to corner—both measurements should be equal. A square house resists wind damage and weathering better than one with twisted corners.
Proper Installation and Placement Strategies
Installing your squirrel house correctly determines whether squirrels will use it and how protected they'll be from predators and weather. Height, tree selection, orientation, and mounting method all influence success rates.
Squirrel houses should be mounted 12 to 20 feet high in mature, healthy trees. This height provides predator protection while remaining
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